I take it all back...

10/07/10

Beds are completely underrated. We take for granted the warm cushioning they provide. My new idea for camping is this... buy a truck, fill it with mattresses, get a big tent, then find a campsite you like and don't move for a week. As I sat writing praises about camping 3 days ago, little did I know that at that very moment my air mattress was leaking through a very small hole. We noticed early enough in the day to go out and get a puncture repair kit and do a double layer fix. This lasted for about an hour in the night, then it was just me and the floor. It was a long cold night. The next night the backpackers lent me a single mattress that we squeezed in the tent. Nick then got bed envy and complained it wasn't fair as he didn't have one. I was quick to point out that if he'd done the gallant thing I’d expected, and offered to take the damaged mattress the night before, then he'd have the extra comfort the next night. It was heaven to lie on that old battered mattress. During the night the wind changed. Our tent was nearly torn apart. The only thing keeping it down was us. Every time the wind gusted we'd get hit in the head by the sides of the tent. 2 long sleepless uncomfortable nights and the reality of camping has kicked in.

We are now staying at Addo Elephant Park and we're in a whole different breed of tent. This one has two wooden beds, bedside tables, lights, a fan, a radiator, and a fridge. There is a big private dining deck outside with our own braai and a view over a waterhole. It would take a hurricane to shift this thing.

Addo is a small game park that used to be mainly elephants, but now has the big 5. It's nice for us to be able to drive ourselves around the park. The roads are good and surprisingly we're not the only people in ancient VWs. It is a little bit daunting to be without a guide when bull elephants walk right at the car, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper. We've been reduced to doing all sorts of things to try and save money. We've only eaten out twice in the last month and I’m get back neglected cooking skills. As I’ve said before, Asia really spoilt us. Instead of meals out all the time, now we treat ourselves with barbecued ostrich burgers and Kudu sausages.

Some of the wildlife we saw when we stopped at an animal sanctury

We've also been doing walks every other day which apart from the odd park fee, are free. South African walks are not to be embarked upon lightly. If the guide book says it's a 3 hour walk then it's probably 4. A 'short steep climb' actually means a lung tearing 2 kilometre scramble straight up sliding gravel tracks. We went along a coastal track the other day and nearly turned back thinking we'd gotten lost and it was impassable. We had to scramble/rock climb our way along 50 metres of exposed cliff face that was getting bashed by typically violent sea. You find yourself looking at the map and going 'that can't be right'. Then you see some South Africa family with 2 under fives happily strolling along further up the track. They will walk/swim/drive in any terrain or condition.