My new favourite place

As I mentioned on the last update, the Thai government obviously feels that we've been overworked this month what with having 2 bank holidays, and had decided to give us a third bank holiday on the spur of the moment. What was nice about this one was that it was so people could go back to their home town and vote, meaning that going away on a break was a reasonably stress free event.
For this weekend we had arranged to go to the closest island to Bangkok, a little known island called Koh Sichang. This small island which can be more or less explored on a bike in a day is often dropped from most peoples holiday considerations as it is located close to the mouth of the Chao Phrya; the dirty great river that flows out through Bangkok. I only know about this island as I was taken there by some long-term expats in 2001. As I recalled the island was low key and relaxing while also being pretty easy to get to. However, the price you pay for convenience and quiet is that it lacks the crystal clear waters and the bars to go to.

The journey down to the island was reasonably uneventful. We left school at 15.00 and were on the bus and moving by 16.00, just over 2 hours later we were sitting on the top of an old Thai ferry with an amused collection of Thais. I have been told many times that you should never trust a Thai boat and it's always wise to sit out in the open or on the top deck, definitely not down below where they usually try and shove you. The boat ride out to the island was an interesting 45 minutes; in the dark with only the occasional use of a spotlight, in slightly big swell, you slalom in and out of the many giant tankers and cargo ships that are waiting to be unloaded with the goods for Bangkok. You never quite realize just how big those things are until you're running along the side of one in a decrepit old wooden boat. The journey was a little bit hair-raising at times but we arrived at the pier safely and were met by the owner of the resort we were staying in.

From our last trip away I was fully prepared this time for the resort to be a bit of a disappointment and not as nice as the pictures. I am very happy to say that this time I had no reason to worry. No photos can really do this location justice. Not only that, but the owners went out of their way to make us feel welcome. As we were taken to our hut which was slightly back from the water but still with a good view, we were told that we would be able to move to one of the other huts later. Then we were taken down to a mat that was laid out for us to eat and drink on the top of the rocks overlooking the sea. The resort we stayed in was called Malee Blue and is owned by an architect and a landscaper. They are a lovely couple and they have put thoughtful touches everywhere. Most places I go in Thailand I always end up saying 'now why did they put that there...?' Or 'what we could just do with is a....' This wasn't the case here. The owners (much to the amusement and criticism from the other people living on the island) tried to make it as un-resort like as possible. They wanted to make it feel like a fishing village, completely natural, without any concrete and in a remote place away from the pier. While building it they were often told they were crazy and they should build on the road and make concrete apartments. Thankfully they did not listen and they now have the most popular and beautiful place to stay on the island. There are only 11 huts and the place has the feeling of a community. In the evening most guests end up fishing for squid off the rocks and it means you end up talking to far more people than you usually would, be it in pidgin English or Thai. While I was staying there my Thai improved a lot, one evening I commented on some of the food we ate, the next day they took me in the kitchen and taught me how to cook it. With my basic Thai it was very entertaining for all (I think most of the staff and family came to watch!).

Apart from having somewhere so nice to stay the weekend was also really enjoyable due to the fact we hired a motorbike for most of the time we were there. I explored more of the island this time than in all the previous visits combined. Our first visit was to an old Chinese shrine built in a temple on the hillside. The best thing about the Khao Yai Spirit Shrine was probably the view, but the shrine itself was quite interesting, set in a cave that had been painted completely gold and had a figure carved into the wall. We continued up the hill from the shrine another 300 steps to see the imprint of the Buddha's footprint and a rather well dressed rock. The steep climb in noon heat nearly killed us but the view from the top was worth it, as was the cooling breeze!!
Next stop was to the old Phra Chuthathut Palace. This was once used by the royals when on holidays from Bangkok. Most of the buildings have gone now but a few pretty ones remain and the grounds are still well kept. Our main reason for going there was to walk up the white chedi that stands on the hill. Apparently one of the kings had this chedi specially designed to be hollow so that he could go inside and meditate. We had the place to ourselves and were kindly allowed to go inside. It's in a fantastic location and is really peaceful.

Even when we weren't going anywhere in particular it was just nice to explore the island's quiet tracks and roads on the bike. Koh Sichang is unlike most other Thai islands and is rocky, craggy and slightly windswept. It's more like Scotland than Phi Phi or Samui. We went down to the only beach on the island and had a drink, but didn't stay there long as the beach had rubbish on it and the water wasn't very clean. We then took a bit of a wrong turn on the way back and ended up driving through a disused quarry and up a small track on the other side. Along here we found a lady and her herd of goats chilling out under some trees and a very small and rocky beach with nice clean inviting water. No tourists and absolutely no umbrellas.

All in all, this was one of the most rewarding and relaxing trips I have been on. What with the cool breeze, nice surroundings, good food and friendly people, I was really sad to have to leave. I can't wait to go back. Hopefully I only have to wait till next month!