Swimming monkeys

03/05/10
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Stinky flamingos

Back on the bus and surrounded by trees. Well, they’re more like bushes that reach 6-7 ft, but they are definitely the first tree like things we have seen in about a week. That is apart from the camel thorn acacia that would probably survive on the moon if someone thought to introduce it.

Have had a relaxing few days. We had our 2 nights in Swakupmond where we got to sleep in a bed for a change. While it was nice to be in civilization for a bit Swakupmond is a large ugly dust whipped town at the southern end of the Skeleton Coast, and it stinks. Smells like rotten eggs. It permeates everything. You wake up in the morning smelling it, and any washing you do ends up smelling of it. It’s better than the last town we drove through before here, they were cultivating cormorant guano beds and it was so ripe it made your eyes water. Combine that with a beach that was green with flamingo poo that sucked off your flip flops and slowed all but the most determined camera clickers in pursuit of the flamingos. All in all it’s a really stinky place.

Driving north from Swakupmond we were back to nothing. 150 km of flat sand planes and empty coastline. The only interruptions on the skyline are small white ablution blocks every 200m along the shore. These are used in December when people from inland flock to the coast to try and escape the insane heat. The only slight signs of human activity is the small makeshift tables every 10m at the side of the road. These have white chunks of salt crystals laid out for sale. As usual, not a sole to be seen, instead you are expected to take one and leave the correct money in a small tin. This trusting approach to business contradicts many common beliefs about the honesty of African people. Can’t imagine this concept fitting in anywhere in western culture which is usually deemed the more civilized.

We stopped on the coast to visit a site that has become a huge breeding ground for sea lions. It’s estimated that about 300,000 sea lions live there. The flat expanse of sand has easy access to the water, waves to play in, few predators, and best of all no humans. That is apart from those willing to drive 150km to see them. You can see the seals playing in the ocean before rounding the corner to find a beach that is black with a writhing mass of blubber. Animals that are only sleek and graceful once submerged, are fat and cumbersome on land. They role, stretch, scratch, and then pass out with the effort of moving to bake in the sun. There is constant noise with braying; mums calling out to their fat black runny eyed pups, and females standing on each other and bickering over the perfect sunning rock. A bull male made his way onto the beach and all hell broke out until he settled into his current harem. As well as all the noise, and in keeping with all the other coastal stops so far in Namibia, it stinks. You have to quickly perfect the art of only breathing through the mouth.

Stinky swimming monkeys

The Skeleton Coast is named after all the shipwrecks that have left the shore littered with the remains of boats and their crew. The hot air of the desert mixing with the cold air of the ocean creates a thick and heavy fog that covers the coast and its hazards. Large numbers of ships have hit rocks or simply run aground by getting confused in the fog. The land is so inhospitable that few people survive. We only went along the very southern edge of this coastline, but we still saw the wreck of a cargo ship wrecked not too long ago.

We have been quite lucky with wildlife so far. As well as the seals and flamingos we have seen ostriches, springbok, wild mountain zebra, a rare African wildcat, and even cheetahs when driving along the main road. In a place where it is often at least 200km between small one shop towns these animals really have the freedom to roam. We have also seem hemsbok or oryx as it is often known, which most of the group have since tried in steak form after being told it is the best meat in the world. It lives to about 25 years and can survive without ever drinking water, only getting liquid from plants. To conserve energy it moves as little as possible. It is tender and fat free.

The Brandberg Mountains

Last night we stopped by Brandberg Mountain (fire mountain), that lights up the sky at sunrise and sunset. We stayed at the beautiful White Lady camp where all afternoon activities got cancelled in favour of the chance to go in the pool and have sundowners in cold water. There was a tame meercat running around the garden called Timone. That night we ate dinner in silence with just the light of the milky Way to see by. The lack of light pollution and low moon meant the stars were the clearest I’ve ever seen them.

Timone

Kids who came with their families to sing tradtional songs around the fire.