Football Fever...

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24/06/10

Been a busy busy week. The little 1 litre car we hired did almost 2500 km in 10 days. From Joburg to Kestell in Northern Drakensberg, to Underberg in Southern Drakensberg (nearly the length of Lesotho), then all the way back again to north of Joburg, where we nipped between Pretoria and Rustenberg to go to football fan fests. Having sworn that we'd keep journeys short after the wasted days on the overland truck, we seem to be spending a lot of time in the car. It's very easy for visitors to South Africa to underestimate just how big the country is. As well as all the miles, I’ve currently been sucked into the first of Stieg Larsson's Millennium Trilogy and I’m finding it really hard to do anything useful with my spare time.

Before we we came back up north to get caught up in the football fever, we stayed at Sani Lodge near Underberg, Southern Drakensberg. This is a highly marketed backpackers that absolutely out does itself. We're always wary of busy popular backpackers, as it usually means damp musty and threadbare beds and lots of noise. We arrived at Sani Lodge to find comfy rooms with.... bedside lights... and extra warm blankets. There was not a soul in sight so we left our bags unlocked in the room with our name on it and hiked up the well marked trail at the back. 

Anyone who goes to this lodge will remember it fondly. It sits in a valley surrounded by the magnificent escarpment of the southern Drakensberg. The area is not as harsh as the north and the lodge's position makes it feel like it's protected in the folds of the hills. The lodge has a back terrace which bakes in the sun even as the rest of the area is cooling. This is an area I could see myself living.

Relaxing in a big comfy lounge around a huge fire that night, I regained some like for 'backpacking'. Being in this country has made us want to take the time to chat to people we meet in the places we stay, something Thailand and Roatan had jaded us a little towards, we were happy to just keep to our friends. It's nice to meet people who are travelling and enjoying their own country. We met a group of S. Africans who had driven 19 hours straight from cape Town so they could stay and watch a match, but still be on time to go on a 7 day hike in freezing weather along the top of the berg. 

After Sani Lodge we went back up to Karma Backpackers in Kestell. Some of the guide books say that going to Karma is 'like going home'. This was so true of our return, where we we welcomed with hugs, 'our room', and stimulating conversation around a big dinner table. Vera Ann makes everyone feel like family. We were sad to leave and will make every effort to go back one day. The difference between Karma backpackers and our next night's accommodation couldn't have been more pronounced. An abrupt and curt conversation was had when we tried to phone for directions, twice, and there was no warm welcome when we arrived. This small game farm is just a side business of people who run a tour company. It's clear to see where all their energy goes. It would be easy to avoid ever meeting the hosts. The rooms were nice but the big sparse kitchen was missing anywhere comfy to sit and had a big empty cold fire place. It could so easily have been made into a nice place. It was freezing at night and there weren't even any extra blankets, some people really suffered.

We stayed at Moonlight to be a little bit nearer the football. We didn't have tickets for any of the matches, but headed in for 2 days at the local fan parks. I was reluctant to waste the days to football, but our first trip was to watch South Africa and France. If there was ever a way to experience football, then this was it. Big screens; so I can actually see the ball, replays; so I don't always miss the interesting bits like usual, and a whole hoard of S. African supporters jumping up and down, dancing on the tables and blowing various things even knowing they were out of the World Cup. It was a great match with great atmosphere and support, a credit to South Africa and all the fans. The people here have such hope for what this event has done in uniting the entire country. Lets hope that the feeling continues when all the footballers have gone home.