It's
nearly the end of November and I’m not quite sure where the year
has gone. I am however mighty impressed that this time in a month we
will be making our way home for Christmas. The joys of teaching...
never a dull day, time really flies. What with Portugal and all the
exciting stuff we've been doing in school it seems like quite a long
time since we were up in Imlil and setting off for our three day hike
across the mountains.
Advertised
as easy, the 40 kilometre walk would lead us through connecting
valleys and over a 3180 metre pass, with two overnight stops in
Berber gites, before finishing in Ourika Valley where we had left our
car.
The
morning of our departure we were met by our guide Mustapha, chef and
muleteer Hamide, and our mule Bob at our Aubegre Dar Adrar. We really
didn't feel that we needed all three to take us on an 'easy walk'
over the mountains, but travel experiences have led us to believe in,
where possible, providing opportunities for locals to earn an income.
Setting off it did feel like a bit of an entourage, and I was a
little concerned for our mule. We only had a small bag each but he
seemed really overladen, thankfully I soon realised that a lot of the
stuff was lightweight bedding for Mustapha and Hamide.
Day
1 – Imlil to Tacheddirt
The first
day we set off slowly climbing up the Tamatert Valley heading east
from Imlil. Initially frustrated with Mustapha's somewhat plodding
pace, I soon realized that it enabled us to walk a lot further
without stopping, and we could actually enjoy the view while we progressed.
It was with this slow and increasingly enjoyable pace that we wound
our way up through a pine plantation before crossing the 2362 metre
saddle and descending slightly into Imenane Valley. Here we traveled
down a long and windy mountain road. Strung out along the green
valley floor were lots of little villages. Linking these villages
there are are pretty gardens taking up every available space.
Moroccans have to come be experts at water use, working in whole
communities to build complex irrigation channels that are controlled
with little drop doors, or planks of wood. At the lift of a door, water can be directed from
one side of the valley to another so that everyone can water their
crops. At the head of this valley, nestled against a ring of high
mountains lies the small village of Tacheddirt, our stop for the
night.
|
Mustapha looking back down towards Imlil |
|
Villages along Imenane Valley |
|
The village of Tacheddirt at the end of the valley |
Part way
along the Imenane Valley we stopped for lunch. Our mule was unloaded
and the kitchen was set up. This was a very impressive sight and way
more than we needed for the four of us. They brought everything.
Everything that is apart from something to light the gas stove with.
Unburdened and grazing happily Bob the mule bucked and protested
greatly at being loaded up again so soon, so we could continue in
search of a lighter. Thankfully this worked in our favour. Bob was
soon unloaded again and we got to lunch on an enormous pasta salad with
sardines, fresh lentil tajine and sweet mint tea, in a beautiful spot
next to a stream with views of the snow-capped peaks behind us.
It was
something of a surprise to discover that our mule Bob was actually a
girl. I’m not even sure she had a proper name, I think it was just
a name they decide to give the guests to keep them happy. She is a
working animal and not a pet, we've yet to meet a working animal that
gets a name here. Interesting fact from our guide about mules...
females are used in the mountains, they are stronger and have greater
stamina.
We
reached Tacheddirt at around two in the afternoon. Although we
climbed 1070 metres the day's 12.5 kilometres did indeed feel easy,
but it was nice to arrive at our gite early to enjoy a hot shower and
relax on the terrace with the incredible views. Ten years ago
accommodation in Tachedddirt was limited to a Club Alpine Francais
Refuge, now there are a couple of guesthouses. Our gite was the
newest and was far grander than we expected, we had a clean, warm and
dry room with six thick mattresses on the floor all to ourselves.
|
Views from the terrace... |
Day
2 – Tacheddirt to Timichchi
We had
been warned that day two was to be the toughest day, but the day with
the most rewarding views. We set off from Tacheddirt at 7.30 while
the valley was still quite dark. Not long after we left we began to
climb. This was the hard part, a continuous climb up to a 3187m pass
into the next valley. Bob and Hamide set off long after us and we
were determined to beat them to the top. We stopped a few times for a
five minute water break but basically climbed over 1000 metres
without a proper break.
On the
way up we encountered a little old man resting with his donkey. We
exchanged greetings with him before he continued on ahead of us,
pushing his donkey from behind. He went all the way up the hillside,
winding along the narrow paths, all the while pushing his donkey
hard. When we reached the top he had secured his donkey and was
sheltering from the wind behind a large rock. He had unloaded his
donkey and had a handful of Mars bars, five soft drinks and a kettle
for mint tea to sell to passing hikers. Impressed with his effort we
bought a Coke off him. It was only then that we found out he was
completely blind. He makes the climb every day in the hope of earning
what can't add up to more than $5.
Having
taken a couple of hours to reach the top we then had to start going
down. I am quite content with up. I am not a down person. Never too
sure-footed at the best of times I tend to hesitate and lack
commitment in my stride, often leading to uncontrolled skids. To
compound the issue our route down was much trickier than the way up.
Loose footing and steep drops made it quite an exhausting descent.
Narrow and slippery in places it was challenging for us with our
hiking boots on let alone the overweighted mules with skiddy metal
shoes that usually use the route. By the time we reached our lunch
spot we had climbed a 1000 metres, and descended 1100. Not sure about
this 'easy' walk classification.
Our lunch
stop was in a small town clinging to the side of the valley. There
were roughly twenty houses clustered together around a mud-hut style
mosque. While waiting for food we observed that the village only
stretched as far as shouting distance. Every so often women would
climb onto their roofs and shout up and down the village at each
other. Who needs a telephone when voice projection and mountain
valley acoustics will do just fine. This was one of the most rustic
villages we have come across. Not a satellite dish in sight. This
village can only be accessed on foot or by mule so much of the modern
trimmings of the outside world has been kept at bay.
We were
sitting just outside the village, close to a large sand pile. The
whole time we were there children of all sizes were going back and
forth to collect sand. Using any kind of container they could find,
some as young as two or three, these children would walk, bent double
under the weight of the sand, shuffling in sandals, flip flops or
over-sized wellies, carrying the sand to a growing pile by one of the
houses. It pulled at the heart strings to see one little boy help an
even smaller boy try and carry his load back. This tiny little boy
just couldn't get a grip on his container and kept stopping and
crying. Each time, the slightly bigger boy would stop, put down his
own load and try and help the smaller child, before picking up his own
and continuing. They would make it about five metres before the
process was repeated.
The
children didn't ask for anything; help, food or money. Some were
curious about us, but they were still very timid towards us. It
seemed they had little other to do than move sand, throw stones at
each other, or, as many bored and unoccupied children have a tendency
to do, make noise. One boy on a nearby roof decided he was going to
try and serenade us with Berber songs, and wailed at the top of his
voice while banging a pan lid. It became strangely acceptable after a
while and he was joined by a few friends. This is something they do
every time tourists pass through. As we left the village we did feel
when passing one group of children, that they were going to turn away
from their stone throwing at each other at start throwing them at us,
but Mustapha prevented this by speaking to them quietly.
Day
3 – Timichchi to Setti Fatma
Day three
was supposed to be the easy day, and we were looking forward to it
being so. The night before had not been quite as comfortable as we
had hoped. We stayed in Auberge de Timichchi. This simple auberge was
run by a friendly man who had set it up many years ago with only one
room. Every year or so he tries to add on another room and now he has
eight or nine he can use for guests. This is impressive progress, but
the rooms are basic and the mattresses of the thinnest variety. With
no sheets to lie on and a sleeping bag zip that decided to choose
this occasion to die on, the night was quite cold and uncomfortable.
Little sleep was had and I arose in the morning hurting all over and
ready for our 'easy' day.
The map
showed us that we were simply following the road that wound along the
side of the valley before descending down into Ourika Valley and our
final destination Setti Fatma. While the terrain was easy what we
hadn't counted on was the fact that we had 14.5 kilometres, with 420 metre
ascent and 900 metre descent to do all before lunch. The walk was
beautiful and dramatic, but with the end in sight and the thought of
the hot shower and soft sofa awaiting us in Ourika Garden Resort, we
just wanted to get to the end. Our first sighting of Setti Fatma was
a welcome one. The view from the top of the valley was amazing, and
as the crow flies the journey there would be short, but following the
dirt track that zig-zags back and forth down the hillside makes it a
few kilometres further than you think. So close but yet so far.
|
Ourika Valley, Setti Fatma is at the far end. |
Arriving
to the hustle and bustle of touristy Setti Fatma was a relief to the
by now descent-hammered knees. For an easy three day walk it felt
like we had gone a lot further. The views we got on route were well
worth it though. Combine it as we did with a few days of post hike
luxury in and around Marrakesh and it's a great option for an unusual
week break. Experiencing a little bit of the rough makes that soft
bed in the kasbah or riad all the more rewarding, especially with the
thought of the 8300 calories we had just burned.