I am
frequently one to rave about the amazing weather we are blessed with
in Ifrane; not too hot, not too cold, and usually with a crystal
clear sky. With the occasional arrival of bad weather, the old-timers
would laugh and say 'you haven't seen anything yet' as we sat in
the clouds and the rain whizzed horizontally passed. We heard tales
of tremendous blizzards, with roads closed, temperatures as low as
-27 degrees C, and snow higher than the windows. Hearing all this we
were somewhat disappointed when, having brought a snowboard out with
us, there was barely enough snow for one week of sledding last year.
It was with this in mind that when the temperature dropped last week
I urged the snow to come. Each night the clouds rolled in and it
started to snow, but each morning there was barely a dusting.
Friday
morning we woke up and looked out of the window into solid clouds. On
the way to school there was already a light covering of snow on the
ground. We were due to leave for the Spanish enclave Melilla straight
after school and it was supposed to snow all morning. Saying that, we
weren't too concerned as the snow that was falling was fine and
powdery, looking almost like spray snow out of a bottle. We figured
something that fine wouldn't really stick.
The snow
continued silently. Busy in the classroom with fogged up windows, it
wasn't until morning recess that I noticed the gathering piles. By
lunch, which I was hosting in the classroom for our only
student/parent lunch of the year, to celebrate the end of
International Week, it was so thick that some parents were stranded
at the university and couldn't get through down-town due to the
accidents.
With an
hour of school to go we made the decision that we would at least try
to get to Spain. The old-timers said, 'this is the real Ifrane!', and
'if you can just get down the mountain to Imouzer it'll all be
clear”. Nick set off to pick up Nate from the Best Western 500m
down the hill. On the way back Nate had to walk behind the car and
push it up the hill, getting covered in snow and taking the
occasional face plant along with it. The journey took just under an
hour. With the heavy weight of the week long expectation of Friday
night beer and pork in Casa Marta, we decided to press on. A snow
plough had gone down towards Fes at 3.00, and leaving school at 3.30
we thought we'd be long down the mountain before a snow plough led a
convoy down at 4.30.
Within
500 metres of setting off we had to push two cars out of snow drifts.
We figured that maybe having done good deeds that Allah might choose
to ignore the fact that we were doing all this in the name of alcohol
and keep us out of a snow drift. Our progress soon got halted
however, when we reached the lowered snow barrier on the outskirts of
town. It was 4.40 by this point and somewhat foolishly we were
surprised that the snow plough hadn't been through. An hour later and
we were still sitting there, by this point with little way of getting
back up the hill into town and with a long line of cars behind us The
thought of setting off down the hill in the dark wasn't appealing,
but by that point it was too late to turn back.
The snow
plough arrived at 6.00. Lights flashing and third in line in a long
convoy we set off down the hill. Progress was good and the snowfall
lessened. Spirits in the car rose. The snow plough pulled out from
the convoy a couple of kilometres before Imouzer, and although it
seemed that the snow was actually thicker we thought that as the snow
plough had left us we must be through the worst. We were wrong.
Imouzer was in chaos. On the other side of the closed snow barrier
cars were parked haphazardly and people were blocking the thickly
covered slippy road. Waving you through they stand in the way of the
moving cars, which are likely to skid into them at any point. It is as
if they have never driven on snow and have no idea that you need to
get out of the way. Instead they stand and walk in the middle of the
road and expect you to jam on the breaks, forgetting that this will
just induce a slide.
Once
through the chaos of Imouzer the sight that faced us was not a
positive one. Imouzer sits on the edge of a valley and the road winds
down out of it with a steep drop on one side. The cars coming up the
hill were sliding all over the road and into our lane at times.
People were helping push them up the hill with little thought for
getting out of the way of oncoming traffic. If no one went off the
mountain that day then it's a small miracle.
To cut an
already too long story short, the 45 minute journey from school to
the highway took us four hours. The snow line was far lower than
anyone expected. We crossed the border into Spain at midnight, 1.00
local time, were in the bar by quarter past, and still didn't make it
to closing. By the time that we had panic drank ourselves silly on
empty stomachs, we had to go home just as the real party was
starting.
Our trip
to Melilla followed its usual routine, and we set off on Sunday on
our return journey with every nook and cranny of car loaded up with
pork and booze, telling ourselves that the extra weight would act as
traction to get us up the hill into Ifrane. The drive back was
uneventful. That is until we reached the snowline. As soon as we hit
snow there were cars parked at every angle along the side of the
road, people taking photos of each other and their cars in the snow.
If this wasn't annoying enough, we started to see cars making their
way down the mountain with mounds of snow on the roof and bonnet, blocking
the windscreen and limiting the drivers view of the chaos on the
road. It took us a while to realize that this wasn't just due to the
drivers being lazy and not clearing their windscreens, but it was in
fact placed there on purpose. Locals drive up from the city, pull
over at the first patch of snow they can find, take all the pictures
they can, and maybe get out a stove and make mint tea. Then, before
departing, they make enormous snowballs and pile them on their car
and take it back down the mountain with them. We even saw a snowman,
complete with eyes, mouth and twigs for arms on someone’s bonnet.
What they expect to do with the snow I have no idea, but judging by
the mounds of it that we kept encountering on the road at the
roundabouts, they didn't really think the plan through.
How long
this current batch of snow will last I don't know; it is still up
over my classroom windowsill a week later. I know one thing for
sure, we are avoiding all travel on roads that we can. Drivers here
are accident prone in the best of conditions. With the added
hindrance of slippy roads and snow tourists it's like a Demolition
Derby. We'll just stay up here and enjoy the spectacular views.
1 comment:
what a glorious series of pictures and good-humoured commentary. We travelled in the area just 3 weeks ago, and apart from rain in the Middle Atlas, it was fine everywhere. Wouldn't imagine things could turn as bad as that.
Your report on people bringing down huge snowballs or snowmen on their bonnets reminded me of similar sights seen on Taiwan in the eighties. People in hot countries seem to just go crazy about snow.
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