Proper Ancient History....

As I have mentioned before, Morocco is a history lover's heaven. Not only are its villages and cities dotted with traces of life from around a thousand years ago, but there are also a scattering of Roman ruins around the country dating back nearly 2000 years. Volubolis just north of Meknes is an archaeological site that boasts the best preserved ruins in Morocco and North Africa. Volubolis was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. 

Unlike temples and ruins that are open to the public in countries not just in the West, but most others around the world, this world heritage site was one that cost about $3 to get in and left you free to roam wherever you liked. With the usual lack of nonchalance it seems that the Moroccans feel that it has managed to last 2000 years so it will survive a little longer. Apart from a few ropes protecting the best preserved mosaics, you can go where you want; clamber down steps and over ancient walls. This combined with the relative lack of tourists made for a far more interesting cultural experience than I expected. I have never had much patience for touring ruins, or I hadn't until someone put a camera in my hand. It's a lot easier to take a real interest in these things when trying to find an unusual angle and you have complete freedom to go where you want. 

The first thing that strikes you about the site is just how big it is. Once one of the Roman empire's most remote outposts, it was the administrative centre for northern Africa, and at it's peak it was a city holding 20,000 people. This was the place where decisions were made and laws were enforced. Now while most of it has crumbled to the ground there are still some amazingly colourful mosaics, pillars and arches to explore.

 

The highlights of Volubolis, apart from the empty space, wild flowers and warm sunshine, was stumbling across the mosaics. Remarkably bright and well preserved, these depicted a variety of scenes; sea monsters, dolphins and other animals (including proof that tigers really did exist in Rome, or Africa at least). One depicted an acrobat receiving a prize for riding backwards on a donkey. A sign of sense of humour that stood the test of time.

With so much space and at $3 a time, Volubolis is a place that can be explored over a few visits. That and the fact that we have discovered a beautiful farm stay within walking distance run by a chef who worked in a Michelin starred restaurant in Holland means that we will definitely back.