Michelin living in Meknes

Over the last two weeks we have been off exploring some more as we have had Nick’s mum and step dad, Val and Bill to stray. During that time we discovered a new hidden gem of a place to visit as well as returning to a riad that has secured its place as a firm favourite. As you may have read in the last post, there are always frustrations involved in travel here, this means it can be a real find when you discover somewhere you know you can count on.

The first place we visited was a farm stay about thirty minutes north of Meknes just by Volubolis. This 100 year old farm is the closest building to the Roman ruins of Volubolis. A law was drawn up in the 1930’s stating that no other buildings could be built in the vicinity to protect the archaeological site. Over the last 10 years ex Michelin chef Azzedine has rebuilt this abandoned farm that had been left to go to ruin. Returning from working in Utrecht in The Netherlands in a top restaurant, he then drove to the bottom of Africa and back in an old Landrover. Proficient in French, Arabic and Dutch, it was on this massive journey that he learnt basic Spanish and English. Azzedine then returned to Morocco with a dream of opening a gourmet farmstay. This he is doing step by step and he calls his guest ‘participants’ as each stay contributes to further renovations. He currently rents out 3 rooms in the house and one in a side annex while he lives in an adjoining house. His current project is to turn an enormous old barn into a restaurant and two further bedrooms. The stay is usually half board and for $40 a person you are treated to a five course evening meal either inside in front of the fire or outside under the stars. 

G+T time in the first sun of the hol.

  

The farm stay was distinctly rustic. The rooms were chilly and slightly musty, the lounge dark and lit only by an overhead light, and of course there was the usual lack of bedside lights. But strangely, you could forgive it here due to its uniqueness. There are not many places where you eat your breakfast on a terrace surrounded by roosters, geese and guinea fowl and get a fine dining experience on a farm.  At the bottom of the garden there is a babbling stream which, if you are lucky, and we were, you’ll find wild terrapins. Going at this time of year you are also treated to a garden overflowing with wild flowers and swaying fields of golden wheat stretching off towards the horizon and ruins. It is like a scene out of Gladiator.

http://www.walila.com/inside/

  

 
At the end of Bill and Val’s stay we took them back to Meknes to Riad Maison da Cote. This was the first riad we went to when we arrived in Morocco and having been to quite a few of them since, I can’t recommend this place enough. Unlike most riads it is just single storey so the interior courtyard is bright and sunny and full of overladen orange trees. The rooms are unusually bright and airy and it is a quiet haven from the sounds of the medina. There are two suites and one double available to rent and the whole riad can be rented for around 160 Euros a night. It is a beautiful and colourful riad that is half the price of most that are available in Fes. Even though Riad Maison Da Cote is in the smaller and less known of all the imperial cities it is a must visit.
http://www.riadmaisondacote.com/

 

 

Proper Ancient History....

As I have mentioned before, Morocco is a history lover's heaven. Not only are its villages and cities dotted with traces of life from around a thousand years ago, but there are also a scattering of Roman ruins around the country dating back nearly 2000 years. Volubolis just north of Meknes is an archaeological site that boasts the best preserved ruins in Morocco and North Africa. Volubolis was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. 

Unlike temples and ruins that are open to the public in countries not just in the West, but most others around the world, this world heritage site was one that cost about $3 to get in and left you free to roam wherever you liked. With the usual lack of nonchalance it seems that the Moroccans feel that it has managed to last 2000 years so it will survive a little longer. Apart from a few ropes protecting the best preserved mosaics, you can go where you want; clamber down steps and over ancient walls. This combined with the relative lack of tourists made for a far more interesting cultural experience than I expected. I have never had much patience for touring ruins, or I hadn't until someone put a camera in my hand. It's a lot easier to take a real interest in these things when trying to find an unusual angle and you have complete freedom to go where you want. 

The first thing that strikes you about the site is just how big it is. Once one of the Roman empire's most remote outposts, it was the administrative centre for northern Africa, and at it's peak it was a city holding 20,000 people. This was the place where decisions were made and laws were enforced. Now while most of it has crumbled to the ground there are still some amazingly colourful mosaics, pillars and arches to explore.

 

The highlights of Volubolis, apart from the empty space, wild flowers and warm sunshine, was stumbling across the mosaics. Remarkably bright and well preserved, these depicted a variety of scenes; sea monsters, dolphins and other animals (including proof that tigers really did exist in Rome, or Africa at least). One depicted an acrobat receiving a prize for riding backwards on a donkey. A sign of sense of humour that stood the test of time.

With so much space and at $3 a time, Volubolis is a place that can be explored over a few visits. That and the fact that we have discovered a beautiful farm stay within walking distance run by a chef who worked in a Michelin starred restaurant in Holland means that we will definitely back. 

Ancient History

For those interested in History and remains of the past, Morocco is undoubtedly one of the greatest places on Earth to explore. Aside from the Medinas that showcase a life trapped in a time warp, and the crumbling ruins of the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs, there is evidence of life long since passed in every small village or town you go to. Ramparts that would be walled and protected elsewhere are used as a place to secure animals or park a car. People here have a great deal of respect for the past, but this respect is doused with practicality. Why cordon off a strip of 10^th Century wall when it could be used to build a new home against, after all, it’s only a wall.

While in Meknes and Fes you see stretches of these imposing walls. Up to 15 metres in height the one in Meknes winds around the city for 25 kilometres. Understandably crumbling in places, this wall was commissioned by the 17^th Century ruler Moulay Ismail after he took over control of the weakened country from his brother who was killed when he fell off a horse in 1672. Sadly Moulay Ismail was so busy building walls and seeing off the competition for right of rule from his 83 brothers and half-brothers, that he was unable to finish building what would have been one of the greatest palaces in the country. Murdering those who failed to submit to his rule, family or otherwise, Moulay Ismail who was also known as Warrior King was one of the greatest leaders of the era. Famous for doing gruesome things such as adorning his new wall with the heads of slain enemies he also managed to build up 160,000 strong elite army called the ‘Black Guard’. This fearsome army successfully subdued the rest of the Moroccan feuding tribes, get rid of most of the Spanish and Brits from the country, and prevent further invasion. This army grew from 16,000 slaves that Moulay Ismail brought from sub Saharan Africa. By providing them with women he bought not only their allegiance but also their children who grew to become soldiers.

As well as all the wall building, murder, fighting and organising, Moulay Ismail fathered literally hundreds of children (876 if you believe Wiki). This caused chaos when he died as it took years to resolve the small issue of who was to be his successor.

Visiting Moulay Ismail’s Mausoleum, it takes a moment for it to register that not only is there no entrance booth; there are also no pestering guides, no information pamphlet or even a single sign. Set into one of his majestic and ornate walls the tomb is reached by walking through five connected courtyards. Contrary to guide book predictions during our visit we didn’t have to squeeze past busloads of tourists and had the place more or less to ourselves. Blue sky contrasts with the tall yellow walls and colourful mosaics. Fountains add to the sense of peace. The aim of the courtyards and fountains being to humble and calm all visitors before they reach the tomb of Moulay Ismail. The simplicity of the first four courtyards contrast greatly with the fifth area and the tomb itself. Foreigners are not allowed to approach the tomb and have to stop in the fifth area. This is possibly the most spectacular space anyway, with light pouring through high windows onto some of the finest craftsmanship that Morocco has to offer. Years’ worth of carving, engraving and mosaic laying has survived through the ages.

As beautiful as the interior is, it is the external courtyards which leave a lasting impression. The fountains, calls of the birds high on the walls and gentle sweeping of the old man in charge of keeping the place tidy, all combine to make it a very serene escape from the harsh light and honking cars outside. 

 

 

Riads, riads, riads....

Riad Fellousia

I have had a small obsession with riads for many years. Everything from staying in them, stealing design ideas from them, to buying and doing one up has been considered. It is therefore with a pleasure to live 60 kilometres away from the medinas of two Imperial cities. We don't need much of an excuse to go down to the big smoke and test out different riads. So far we have been to sunny Riad Maison D'a Cote and formal Riad 53. Tempted by the thought of Christmas shopping and a break from the quiet of Ifrane we were thrilled to find an absolute bargain $40 stay at Riad Fellousia in Meknes. 

Maison D'a Cote

Riad 53

The Meknes medina is far smaller than the one in Fes and we have been told by many people that it is prudent to browse in Fes but purchase in Meknes. Prices are lower and the hassle far less. As this is our first Christmas at home in four years we are keen to take lots of local gifts back home. Partly because it's more original and partly because no present is worth going out looking for on Christmas Eve in the UK, the first full day we are back.

Set against the fortified wall of the medina Riad Fellousia has five suites and is a warren of little doors and steep staircases. Three of the rooms are situated around the small garden courtyard, the others up on the second floor sharing a lounge and with balconies into the courtyard. Decorated with local arts and crafts it is more on the traditional side than the other riads we've been to, but in a low-key Berber way rather than a ridiculously grand and fussy way as is often the case. 

For $40 a night we weren't expecting too much. We couldn't believe it when we saw the place. the location was so good that from the roof terrace of the riad it was possible to sip Moroccan tea while watching the shamens and snake charmers at work. Our room was a suite with an old converted section of a hammam for the bathroom. A hammam is a traditional bathhouse. Although only a few are still used, and now act more as spas than a way of life, these bathhouses were once the social centre for all women. Important for men as well, as there was often no place to bathe in the home, they were traditionally more valued by women as they were the only occasion that they were allowed to go out of the home and interact with people. It would have been usual to go and spend a whole day bathing, getting scrubbed and stretched, relaxing and gossiping surrounded by other women. Now people have bathrooms and go there only as a treat. Our converted hammam was a low ceiling arched bathroom with a toilet cubby that had a door frame that came up to only chin height and a slightly misplaced pink glow. The blue tiled shower was big enough for about ten people. 

 

As well as being a great place for much cheaper riads and a calmer medina experience than other Imperial cities, Meknes boasts the claim of having more pubs than any other city in Morocco. We saw quite a few but I’m not sure how relatively unknown and un-touristy Meknes can beat places like Tangier, Marrakesh and Casablanca. Having had our fill of tajine and Moroccan food we went to the highly recommended 'Le Pub'. Here it was a relief to see men and women out socialising and having a drink. This place is ruled by coffee shops. The majority of which will not have a single woman in them. It really isn't that sexist here, it just seems that way when you're in search of a café. Anyway, it was a pleasure to eat and drink in an almost pubby atmosphere with a roaring fire, beer, seafood starter, amazing blue cheese steak and red wine for under $40.

After our success at Le Pub we decided to carry on and investigate some of the other recommended drinking establishments in the area. Our next stop was the somewhat suspiciously named Novelty Bar. This was one that had been recommended as a great place to visit by a number of websites. There are two levels to this bar and when entering we were shepherded upstairs by a slightly bemused doorman. Upstairs was low ceilinged, smoky, neon lit and full of men. Not quite to our taste we went for the downstairs option. Upon entering we had one of those experiences you always read about. All chatter ceases and all eyes stare. We made it across the room full of Moroccan men before we decided that perhaps this wasn't a drink we really needed to have and turned and left. There it was, white woman in pub of Moroccan men, instant heathen. 

The rest of the trip was quite uneventful. I was called a Berber three times when shopping. This was on account of the fact that I have learnt to haggle the Moroccan way and managed to get most things at quarter of the price. Which is somewhere close to the real price. The only one annoyance of the trip was as we were leaving where we encountered the most aggressively begging child I’ve ever come across. About five years old and clothed nicely she lived in one of the houses along the alley from the riad. So angry and demanding for a Dirham, she grabbed, pushed and ripped at clothes. When I told her to stop she just laughed and pulled harder. She was not in desperate need and found it highly entertaining to harass the foreigners. Standing and shouting at kids in the street is not how we planned to end the trip.

Riad Fellousia http://www.riadfelloussia.com/

Riad 53 http://www.fes-ryad53.com/

Maison d'a Cote http://www.riadmaisondacote.com/riad_meknes.php