I seem to have spent a lot of time talking about Slovenia recently. But, as I said in my last post, it is a country that gets under your skin. The last few weeks have been busy ones, with a work trip to Rome, a lot of networking, and a whole lots of shining up the CV. We have even gone as far as to start up our own teaching websites in order to best sell ourselves to the European market. We must get back there, and the closer to Slovenia the better.
So,
why the obsession? We have been to beautiful places before and not
had a desperate need to up sticks and move there. Rather than one big
draw, it seems like there are a whole lots of small things that add
up to something rather unique in Slovenia.
To
get to Slovenia from Morocco we flew into Milan Bergamo and rented a
car. It is about 400km along highways which should make it easier
than it is. Driving in Italy, where everyone thinks they are a racing
driver makes highways more stressful even than back home in Morocco.
A four hour journey takes it out of you, especially when you get lost
in Trieste's remarkably ugly industrial zone, in the dark, just 20 km
away from your destination. Leaving the hulking shapes of factories
and warehouses behind, it is calming to cross a barely noticeable
border into Slovenia, where you are instantly in peaceful, rural
surroundings and small spread-out, dimly-lit villages.
For
our first night we were staying in Marezige, a tiny town in the hills
overlooking the industrial port of Koper. Arriving late on a Sunday,
very tired and somewhat irritable, we were dreading the prospect of
having to make the inevitable journey down the hill and into Koper to
find somewhere to eat. There was little sign of life in any of the
villages we had passed through on the way up. We got to Marezige and
passed a vineyard, instantly making things look more positive. Then,
rounding a bend we came upon a small restaurant, twinkling with fairy
lights and looking very much open.
For
our first experience of Slovenian hospitality, we probably couldn't
have done much better. We were met by a broadly smiling waitress who
led us to a cosy table. We sipped cold beers while studying the
enormous menu. European cuisine is always a pleasure after living in
Morocco, but this menu was fabulous. Nick opted for the highly taboo
ham cooked in red wine sauce, and I went for the lighter option of
pork on pork with the mixed grill.
Slovenia produces up to 90 million litres of wine a year, yet exports very little of it. Slovenians love wine and drink nearly all of it before it can leave the country. They sell it by the litre. We ordered a litre of white produced just down the road. This arrived with a free aperitif for me. This was not going to be a quick meal.
Slovenia produces up to 90 million litres of wine a year, yet exports very little of it. Slovenians love wine and drink nearly all of it before it can leave the country. They sell it by the litre. We ordered a litre of white produced just down the road. This arrived with a free aperitif for me. This was not going to be a quick meal.
The
food arrived. One thing I have learned from this trip, the Slovenians
have big appetites. The portions are enormous. From main meals to
cream cakes, you will not be finishing your plate. When in doubt
share.
A
whole lot of pork and a portion of profiteroles later, we were just
about ready to roll ourselves down the hill to Casa Oasa where we
were staying, but not before trying one of the many digestifs at the
back of the menu. The aperitif had been lovely, so we had high hopes.
If there is one thing I would recommend avoiding when visiting
Slovenia, it is the tasting of random spirits. Instead, just spray a
can of hairspray quite liberally into the air and then walk through
the resulting cloud. This way you at least avoid the extreme chemical
burn going all the way down to the stomach. We found we needed to
leave quite quickly after that, so paid the remarkably cheap 40 Euro
bill and stumbled home.
http://www.casaoasa.com/
The
next day started somewhat delicately. The hangover a lot bigger than
we had intended. The plan for the day was to go and have brunch in
Piran, Slovenia's prettiest town, before driving up the country to
Lake Bled. Dating back to the Napoleonic Wars, Piran has a distinctly
Venetian feel. Beautiful cobbled alleyways, colourful and ornate
architecture, and a wonderful Café culture. However, unlike it's
grander more touristy counterpart across the Adriatic, Piran has
crystal clear water, is free from stagnant lagoon smells, and has
coffee that doesn't cost 6 Euros.
Taking a break from stumbling home. |
Hairspray
spirits the night before aren't the most motivational ingredient to
add to a day, so we explored a lot less than planned, and spent a
large part of the morning eating. Just in case we didn't reach our
P.I.G (pork intake goal) the day before, we started the day with a
ham and cheese sandwich and coffee on the waterfront. We took a short
walk along the promenade, round a church or two and then down a few
narrow alleys. It was here that we stumbled across our next hidden
gem of a restaurant.
Tempted
by the seafood but still a little full, we decided to share the
seafood platter for one, washed down with delicious grapefruit beer.
When the food arrived I had to suppress a gasp of surprise and with a
hint of panic at the bill, and confirmed what we had ordered. The 11
Euro seafood platter for one. This thing was enormous. Fried
potatoes, fried fish, deep fried calamari rings, grilled calamari,
and our personal favourite, and something of a revelation to us,
calamari stuffed with cheese and ham. We shared one and were still
unable to finish. Something a little unheard of when it comes to
seafood. The couple on the next table ordered two, after having
appetizers. I did mention people in Slovenia have big appetites.
Very full and somewhat over indulged, we had completed our coastal stage of the Slovenia trip. Now for the 173km journey that would take us from the bottom to the top of the small but beautiful country.